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Panama
hats are the most famous Ecuadorian handcrafts in the world.
This trade name was created in the mid-1800s by American gold
miners, who stumbled upon these hats in Panama markets and quickly
became fashionable when brought back to the United States.
No one knows for certain how long toquilla straw hats have been
woven in Ecuador, but it certainly preceded the Spanish Conquest
four centuries ago. Chroniclers of the conquest narrate that
natives wore a strange attire over their heads similar to vampires’
wings made out of the fibers of a plant that grew wild in the
Ecuadorian province of Manabi.
The weave in the shape of a hat was introduced by the Spanish
around 1600 in the towns of Montecristi and Jipijapa, where
this legendary tradition continues today. The Spanish gave them
the name "toquilla" (headscarf) to identify the straw
from which the hats are made.
The first panama hats were commercialized in South America,
in the territories that currently belong to Ecuador, Colombia
and Peru. At the end of the XVIII century, during the reign
of King Carlos IV of Spain, toquilla straw hats arrived in Europe
and graced the heads of several renowned members of the European
royalty.
At the same time, in order to honor King Carlos IV and Queen
Luisa, botanists agreed on the name Carludovica Palmata for
the botanic classification of the plant used to weave panama
hats. This name comes from the combination of the Latin names
Carolus: Carlos, and Luduvica: Luisa.
In 1855, panama hats were taken to the universal show in Paris,
and instantly became the fashion accessory of choice for aristocrats.
The Hispanic American War of 1898, when fifty thousand panama
hats were used by the soldiers that sailed to the Philippines
and the Caribbean, allowed Ecuadorian artisans to conquer the
American market. The panama hat industry remained strong through
the following sixty years. 1946 was one of the most memorable
years of the panama hat industry; five million hats were exported,
accounting to 20% of the value of all Ecuadorian exports for
the year.
In the 1920s gangsters adopted the wide brim models that are
still known as the Al Capone style, while women preferred the
smaller-brim models in a variety of colors to match their dresses.
The 1960s marked the decline of hats and the panama in particular.
Panama hats have been a symbol of fashion and elegance throughout
history and Alfonso Eudoro is determined to continue this legendary
tradition.
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Panama
hats are made of fine toquilla straw (name given by the Spanish
during the years of the Spanish Conquest), which is a filament
split from the leaves of the Carludovica Palmata plant.
Carludovica Palmata comes from the Cyclanthaceae family. It
is a plant similar to a palm tree without a trunk, from which
wide two to three meter long leaves in the form of fans come
out from the ground supported by long cylindrical petioles.
It grows wild in the tropical forests of western and eastern
regions of Ecuador, but today it is often cultivated in fields
with a slight fifteen degree slope, in warm and humid western
regions of Ecuador.
Although the best toquilla straw comes from the provinces of
Guayas and Manabi (coastal regions of Ecuador) which profit
from the abundant yet not excessive rain of the Current of Humboldt,
it can also be found in other regions of Ecuador such as the
Sierra and the Amazon, and in the Santa Cruz Island of the Galapagos
Islands where it is solely an ornamental plant.
There have been numerous attempts to grow the Carloduvica Palmata
in other warm, humid regions of the world, but the results were
never as successful as the ones present in Ecuador. The best
toquilla straw is without a doubt, exclusive to Ecuador.
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The
weaving of a genuine panama hat is done completely by hand,
from the very beginning to the end, using no mechanical implements.
After extracting the fibers from the plants’ leaves, they
are boiled in water for an hour and dried in the sun during
the day. They are then separated into fine strips and the process
is repeated several times to make sure that the fibers become
as resistant as possible.
Weaving a “Montecristi fino” requires additional care
in the process.
After boiling the fine fibers, they are dried indoors. They
are then sulfured and sun dried to acquire an ivory color.
It is not recommended to weave "finos" during the
day because the straw is so fine that any variation in the weather
can damage it. It is usually woven during the night and indoors,
and during the day it is covered with a wet towel to protect
it from climate variations, dust and mosquitos.
The hat is composed of three parts: "plantilla" (cone
of the hat), "copa" (crown) and "falda"
(brim).
The weave begins from the "plantilla" which has a
circular form and is no longer than 10 centimeters. Then a mould
of wood is used to give the crown its shape. The brim of the
hat is made last and its length depends on the request of the
customer, usually from 7cm to 15cm.
The final procedures are then completed at hast factories and
include washing, trimming, breaking-in, pressing, bleaching
or coloring the hats, among others.
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It
is not unusual for a panama hat to last several generations.
Panama hats are very durable, if treated properly.
Some families have been passing along their forefathers’
panama hats for generations, as a valuable tradition and legacy.
Here are some basic tips of how to take care of your panama
hat:
•
Avoid getting your panama hat wet. This can cause the straw
to lose its shape.
•
Handle your hat by its brim. Do not pinch its crown as this
may cause it to lose its original shape and possibly break
the straw.
•
When resting your hat on a surface, always set it on its crown
to avoid flattening out its brim.
•
If you hang your hat on a peg, make sure the peg rests on
your hat’s sweatband and not directly on the straw.
•
Try to retain the straw’s suppleness. A very easy and
effective way to do this is by hanging your hat in the bathroom
while taking a shower. This will keep your panama hat looking
fresh.
•
To keep it clean, dust your hat with a soft bristled brush.
•
While not using your panama hat, keep it in a dry, cool place
or in its box.
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SIZE
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Inch
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cm
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(American)
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(English)
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(French)
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Small
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6
7/8 - 7
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6
3/4 - 6 7/8
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4
- 4 1/2
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21
1/2 - 21 7/8
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55
- 56
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Medium
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7
1/8 - 7 1/4
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7
- 7 1/8
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5
- 5 1/2
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22
1/4 - 22 5/8
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57
- 58
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Large
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7
3/8 - 7 1/2
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7
1/4 - 7 3/8
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6
- 6 1/2
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23
- 23 1/2
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59
- 60
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X
Large
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7
5/8 - 7 3/4
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7
1/2 - 7 5/8
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7
- 7 1/2
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23
7/8 - 24 1/4
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61
- 62
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To
determine your hat size, measure the circumference of
your head using a tape measure. The measurement should
be taken at the widest point of the head, just above the
ears. If your measurements fall between sizes, choose
the larger size.
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